Mamallapuram was Mahabalipuram -- It's nobody's business but the Tamils.

Mamallapuram is a small town a couple of hours by bus south of Chennai. It was here that I picked to chill when I first landed in India. I had heard it was the only "Traveler Ghetto" in Tamil Nadu.

Still reeling from jet lag and culture shock getting of the bus in the main bazaar in town, even at 7 in the morning was still a bit much for me. Getting my bearings I could tell the ocean was just a little ways East. I strapped on my back and headed to the beach. People were getting their days under way. Filling water jugs, opening up small shops and stalls, washing, saying "hello" to the lost fat American as he stumbled past them. The cows, goats, chickens, and dogs also were going about their business.

The beach was beautiful, if a little garbage strewn. An ancient stone temple stood watch as the sun stretched across the the Bay of Bengal. I had made up my mind I was gonna take the first room I found with hot water, no matter what the cost. I guess it is really important to look like you know what your doing in India, especially in a tourist trap. An older Tamil man in a blue lungi came up to me and said, "Are you looking for room? You are very lucky today. I have hotel. You can see my name in Lonely Planet."

I responded with a weak and defeated, "Do you have hot water?"

"Yes, and 24 hour electricity!"

"Okay, lets go look."

After a walk through narrow sandy lanes we got to The Hotel Laxshmi, formerly Laxshmi Lodge. It was a thread-bare two story set around a large courtyard. After the 2004 Tsunami flattened the town my innkeeper had taken the opportunity to build another building closer to the water with AC rooms and a pool. My room had no AC. Just a simple concrete platform with a foam mattress and dingy bathroom. I had no idea what to expect in a room or really what the rate should be. He gave me a price for four nights and I took it. I paid too, much. Maybe twice of what I should have. But I needed to sleep. And take a bath. After I paid him I said, "I'm gonna take a bath." "Very good, I send up hot water." The hot water comes in a bucket, upon request.

I bathed my self. Went for a little walk and fell asleep for almost 20 hours.